Why the Stryfe?
It is easily the best Nerf blaster that looks and feels like a real rifle and has a ton of options for adding aftermarket stocks, barrel extensions etc. The Stryfe is also perfectly suited to modding as you can access the blaster using standard screws without needing to use glue.
Nerf Stryfe with aftermarket mods compared to the official Nerf add-ons you can buy - both look great!
The plan. Upgrade the Nerf Stryfe to make it more powerful, accurate and interesting to look at.
Upgrading the Nerf Stryfe
The Stryfe is a “flywheel” blaster that pushes a dart inbetween two flywheels that spin and push the dart out at high speed.
To upgrade the blaster you need to upgrade:
Flywheels and cage
Although discontinued. The Nerf stryfe is still easily available online - I picked one up for £15 on Facebook Marketplace.
The Stryfe comes in two main versions, the blue version (older) and the orange version (newer). Try to buy the orange version as it was upgraded to have less stoppages but if you are going to upgrade the blaster then it doesn't really matter as you'll be removing the parts that cause it to jam.
Recommendation: Blasterparts for visual mods, Outofdarts for internals. The price of parts vary wildly across sites and if you are after Workermod parts it is worth checking Alibaba or Etsy for cheaper deals.
If you are upgrading your internals (motors and flywheels) it is definitely worth upgrading your battery.
You also need to find a battery that will fit your compartment. The upgrades I did below required hollowing out the battery tray to fit a new battery in using a plastic cutter/plyers. I also purchased an expanded battery cover to give it more space. Make sure the battery you are buying will fit your compartment!
LifeP0 After reading many guides you should never use the “AA size” LifeP0 batteries. They can be extremely unsafe (they literally explode with mid to heavy use) and are not suited to running these blasters. An example of them are here.
NiMH Nearly all Nerf modders recommend a decent NiMH battery as they are more suited to operating for prolonged periods of times without exploding (always a bonus!).
LIPO Luke and others also recommend using a LiPO battery as long as you have an ‘alarm’ fitted that will beep before the battery becomes unsafe/explode. Example of the LIPO alarm is here. Do not use a LIPO battery without an alarm!
Internals - flywheel types
There are a bewildering array of flywheel options out there. The closest I could get for information on the different types are listed on ak-blastermod.com:
Standard (White) Straight GrooveDiameter: 33.7mmWeight: 4.2gMuzzle Velocity: LowAccuracy: LowDart Condition: Very Good
Standard (Black) Angled GrooveDiameter: 34.1mmWeight: 5.4gMuzzle Velocity: Very LowAccuracy: Very HighDart Condition: Excellent
High Crush (Black) Straight GrooveDiameter: 34.7mmWeight: 6.0gMuzzle Velocity: Very HighAccuracy: FairDart Condition: Poor
High Crush (Black) Angled GrooveDiameter: 34.7mmWeight: 6.1gMuzzle Velocity: LowAccuracy: HighDart Condition: Fair
Standard (Black) Smooth SurfaceDiameter: 34.5mmWeight: 5.7gMuzzle Velocity: LowAccuracy: HighDart Condition: Excellent
Source - Note I haven't personally tried any of these.
I ultimately went for the ones Luke recommended which were the "Worker Transparent Canted Flywheel Pair". These give the best accuracy without destroying/wearing down the dart (which many do).
I also went for the motors Luke recommended as some of the workermod ones can be a bit hit and miss with regards to quality.
I looked on many forums, youtube vids, and guides and many of them featured conflicting information. The guys and gals on the Nerf sub reddit were the most useful and they recommended I talk directly to Luke at Outofdarts.com as he is a modding Guru. Luke runs an amazing website that has a ton of useful information on Nerf modding. He also has written a lovely book on all things Nerf which have some step by step modding guides (including for the Stryfe)! I would recommend buying this book as the guide is very simple to follow and will support Luke (getting limited run books printed is not cheap!).
He very helpfully sells a number of kits that include everything you need to upgrade the Stryfe internals.
As I was after a blaster that wasn’t too extreme I went for the Stryfe 3s entry level mod kit as it promised good accuracy.
• 2x - Valkyrie Motors
• 1x - Worker Transparent Canted Flywheel Pair (W0357)
• 1x - Worker Transparent Flywheel Cage 43.5mm (W0354)
• 1x - Tezuo 21A Microswitch Lever
• 1x - Stryfe Switch Mounting Plate 3D Printed
• 1x - Stryfe Extended Battery Cover Small
• 1x - 18AWG Hobby Wire Red/Black (Pre-Cut)
• 1x - XT-60 Connector Male/Female (Pair)
• 2x - Large Heat Shrink Wrap (Pre-Cut)
• 1x - Small Heat Shrink Wrap (Pre-Cut)
• 2x - 3D Printed Motor Cage Spacers
With this kit you will need a number of tools, including a soldering iron and plastic cutter. You will also need to purchase a LIPO battery and a LIPO alarm. Ensure the battery comes with an XT60 connector (or buy an adaptor).
I won’t post the full install guide on here as it is all listed very nicely in the book (it was nice to follow a written guide rather than having to play and pause a youtube vid). The only thing I would point out is the book talks about building a switch spacer with putty. This isn’t needed any more as Luke now includes a 3D printed spacer in the kit which saves a ton of time (but the book doesn’t mention it).
The installation is reasonably simple for someone that can use a soldering iron. It basically relies on you completely gutting the internals and replacing them with safer components designed to handle the upgraded parts.
Power The blaster is now much much more powerful but is still suitable for outdoor play or indoor target practice. I would not recommend using this inside without eye protection as the darts are pretty powerful now. They sting a little as well indoors but outdoors they are fine.
Noise. It is quite a bit louder!
Accuracy! It is now much, much more accurate which was the main reason for the upgrade so I am very happy with the upgrade. I only use the accustrike darts.
Was it worth it? The cost of upgrading these was a bit silly, especially as a lot of the parts were from overseas so the postage was astronomical. The blaster is much better than the original but I wouldn’t bother doing it again as the difference between the original is definitely not worth the cost. My personal recommendation would be to just by a Nerf rival blaster if you want something more accurate.
There’s a ton of 3D printed parts available. The cheapest one I could find was this excellent kit by blasterparts:
It is extremely well priced for what you get. Shame the postage is so expensive but the kit is still worth it.
The magazine with magpul is excellent
The stock is extremely well made and is adjustable! For an adult it is the perfect extension.
The handguard and angled foregrip is very sturdy.
Comes with two flash hiders/muzzles. The M4 vortex style flash hider was my favourite. The other one doesn't really work as the darts tend to hit it.
These things alone make the kit great value for money. With them all fitted the rifle feels like a real M4 as it is almost the exact same dimensions.
The rear sight unit is awful and flimsy and doesn’t particularly fit on the blaster well. When clipped to the top of the blaster the front end just hovers in the air and comes off really easily. I removed this straightaway as it’s not fit for purpose. I tried getting an extended rail for it but they aren't compatible.
The barrel is very thin and flimsy and will break easily. (although it hasn’t yet!). It is also so long that on a stock blaster it causes every 3rd round to be a stoppage and destroys the accuracy and power of the blaster making the blaster performance unusable. Without the barrel you cant have the handguard fitted so it makes the kit a bit tricky as to use the kit you effectively destroy the performance and usability of the blaster.
Note: On a stock blaster you will not be able to use the barrel or handguard without making the blaster completely useless. If you upgrade the internals it largely solves the issue and makes the blaster usable BUT whatever you do to the internals, by adding the barrel and handguard you will always increase stoppages, reduce power, and accuracy of the blaster. If you just want a performance upgrade I would avoid using the barrel and foregrip at all.
You can buy rifled and non-rifled barrels. I have tried both and the rifled ones are useless and don’t help as all they do is increase friction thereby reducing power and accuracy. You should only get a barrel extension for aesthetic reasons as it will nearly always reduce power and accuracy by a considerable margin!
Other recommended mods
Worker Picatinny Rail Mount - 27.9cm – This goes the length of the blaster and looks great. It is very well made and sturdy.
Spraying the muzzle orange/yellow – These are toys and you always want to ensure that the end of the barrel is a bright colour to reduce the chance of someone thinking that they are a real gun. I just got some orange spraypaint and sprayed the muzzle so it matched the rest of the blaster.
Modding the Nerf Stryfe was a fun experience but ultimately I don't think it was worth the overall cost. I do think the blaster looks great now and without the foregrip and barrel extension the blaster is very accurate and performs really well outdoors but compared to the stock blasters if you are wanting a performance Nerf gun I would go down the stock Nerf Rival series or buy a dedicated modded Nerf gun like this
I hope this was useful. If you have any suggestions/improvements please add them below and I can update this guide.